Here is a
compilation of some of the most frequently asked questions that I have
received, if you feel I have omitted something important, or you
feel you have something of value you would like me to add...
PLEASE e
mail me !
Question :
I would like to order some of your parts, what do I need to do ?
What
work would YOU recommend for my pistol ?
Do I need to clean my gun before shipping it to you?
I still have questions, how can I contact you ?????
Do you accept credit cards or checks?
Why can't I talk to you on the phone?
Can I drop off my gun to you in person?
What is
the LEGALITY of shipping my gun to you?
Do you offer Police / Law Enforcement or FFL gun dealer discounts?
Will your "Short" trigger really make the reach to the trigger closer ?
What is the toughest finish for my gun ?
What exactly is your "DayGlo™" sight highlighting and can you do it on night sights ?
If I get my gun plated, should I have you do your work before or after I get the plating done ?
Why does your action job cost more then some of your competitors ?
Why does your plating cost more then some of your competitors ?
What do you think about the new Sig's and other guns?
Which is the best 1911 choice to buy as a base gun to work on?
Can you install the Sig SRT parts in my standard SA/DA Sig?
How light can you make my DA (Double Action), on my Sig pistol?
Can I send you parts I bought myself for you to install, instead of buying the parts from you?
Why do you prefer Meprolight sights over the other brands ?
How much should I fire my gun before I send it in for action work ?
Should I replace all my springs when you do the work ?
Can you convert a P229 to double action only, if so how much would it cost w/ a trigger job?
Can you convert my Sig P226 / P229 to SAO?
Can you convert my Beretta 92F to SAO?
How light can you make the trigger pull on my Sig DAK model?
Can you install night sights in my "xxxxx" gun?
Can I use ANY ammo after you work on my action?
What ammo would you recommend for my carry gun?
What do you recommend for cleaning & oiling of my gun?
What is the difference between NICKEL and HARDCHROME?
Do you have any recommendations for a Holster?
What EXACTLY
is your "TJ SIG-SAFE" safety device?
Why does my Sig P220 feel better then my P228 (or old model P226) after you worked on both?
Will your "TJ Sig Sauer Grip Screws" fit my new model wood grips?
Is there anything that you can do to take up the trigger slack or remove some of the trigger travel?
What does polishing the breech face do for reliability?
Why do you recommend to "Fit & Polish" for my extractor?
Why do you recommend a "Satin Polish" on my barrel hood?
Will you return my old parts after you replace them with new custom parts?
Will your custom work / action work void my manufacturer's warranty?
Do you give a warranty on your custom work / action work?
Do you have suggested modifications for LEFT handed Sig shooters?
I watched your "TJ's Sig Sauer Disassembly & Reassembly DVD",
Where can I get a good alignment punch to help me on disassembly & reassembly?
Q: OK, I decided I want you to do some work on my gun, now what ?
A:
You simply send me your gun directly, via UPS NEXT DAY AIR / OVERNIGHT (I STRONGLY DO NOT RECOMMEND FedEx because they often DO NOT DELIVER on the day promised!!!)
(DO NOT SHIP US MAIL / U.S. Postal service),
INCLUDE WORK PAYMENT IN THE BOX WITH YOUR GUN.
(CA$H, Money Order, or Cashiers Check / Bank Check are the ONLY accepted
payment methods)
(NO CREDIT CARDS, NO CHECKS, NO PAYPAL, NO I.O.U.'s, Etc.)
Personally I recommend that you do not tell the "mail store clerk" that you are shipping a gun,
I suggest saying it is machine parts instead, but that is your judgment call, not mine.
I am a licenced
FFL dealer and it IS legal to ship to me.
*Please mark the outside of the box "DELIVER AFTER 11:00 AM ONLY" or "DELIVER BETWEEN 11:00-5:00 ONLY"
DO make sure
you insure the parcel for at LEAST the replacement cost + payments.
DO make sure you add ADULT SIGNATURE REQUIRED to the shipment or the insureance will be invalidated!
Please ship in the SMALLEST box that will still protect your gun.
UPS charges for "dimensional weight" as well as "actual weight" whichever is greater.
(ie: a big box that weighs 3lbs, will be billed at 12lbs = $50+ additional fees)
Please also be sure to read the LEGALITY & TARIFF rules for UPS / Fedex.
*Please note that if you do not ship OVERNIGHT + "Adult Signature Required"
UPS or Fedex will NOT pay any insurance claim! So ship it right.
The delivery
address for UPS or FedEx ONLY is:
TJ's Custom
- 3347 Caroline Ave. - Culver City - CA - 90232
NO "DROP OFF"
OR VISITORS ALLOWED - NO EXCEPTIONS
Q: I would like to order some of your parts, what do I need to do ?
A:
Just send payment (CASH (wrapped in newspaper etc.), Money Order,
or Cashiers Check / Bank Check)
(I will accept personal checks for parts only, but there will be a 15 business day hold before shipping)
Ship to the address below
with a request describing what it is you want to order, the model of your
gun and the color / finish of the parts you are requesting.
Include an email
address in case there is any problem or question I have about your order.
Make SURE your
address is very readable & legible.
Parts are NOT
insured unless you pay insurance charges (+$5.00) and request insurance,
I am NOT responsible
for parts once I deliver them to the post office.
( In case anyone
missed it above, I do NOT accept ANY credit cards or Paypal EVER. )
Q: What work would YOU recommend for my pistol ?
A:
On Sig's or other DA autos, I would start with a "Level 1 Package" (Typically $399 =s/h) ( my Level 1 Package
includes all the Action work & internal smoothing, a TJ stainless short
rounded trigger (Sig 220, 225, 226, 228, 229, 245) or customizing your existing
trigger by rounding-radiusing-polishing (re-shaping it to be much more
ergonomic and have a nice smooth silver finish), a throat & polish
of the feed ramp & barrel to ensure a high level of feeding reliability,
and fit & polish the extractor (to enhance case extraction as well
as reduce the chance of extractor breakage).
On 1911's what I always recommend to start with is this as fundamentals..... Q:
Will your "Short" trigger really make the reach to the trigger closer ?
A:
Not really, you see there is only about 1/8" of material that you have
to play with there,
Q:
What
is the toughest finish for my gun ?
A: Black
Teflon is the most corrosion resistant without a doubt, however, HardChrome
is the toughest, and should basically never wear out and is extremely resistant
to scratches and holster wear. HardChrome is basically the equivalent
of a super hardened stainless steel plating.
Q:
If
I want to get my gun plated,
A:
Well . . . assuming that you do not want me to do the plating work, you
should have the gun plated BEFORE my work, not after. Be SURE that
the plater does NOT plate ANY internal parts, as it changes tolerances
and adds porosity. This is exactly the reason why you want to plate it
before my work. If I do the work and then you have it plated, parts
like the hammer, slide, etc., that you will undoubtingly have plated,
will no longer have the smooth mirror finish I put on them and you will
wonder what happened to that smooth function you just paid me for.
Q:
Why
does your action job cost more then some of your competitors ?
A:
First of all, I do not feel as though I have any competitors.
Q:
Why
does your plating cost more then some of your competitors ?
Q:
What
do you think about the new Sig's and other guns?
A:
As with nearly all things made today, the quality SEVERELY falls behind
the quality of the same items made years earlier. A gun made 10 years
ago is MUCH better then one made today, and one made 15 years ago is MUCH
better then that one ! In MY opinion, the current MIM (metal injection molding) cast hammers fall FAR behind the
quality / workmanship / workability of the older machined hammers.
Q:
What
exactly is your "DayGlo™" sight highlighting and can you do it on
night sights ?
A:
My "Day-Glo™" sight highlighting
is a bright florescent color coating that I apply to the face of your front
sight, it is very bright and draws your eye(s) to the front sight in the
daytime.
Q:
Why
do you prefer Meprolight sights over the other brands ?
A: There
are good and bad sights out there, and there are good and bad companies
out there.
Q:
Should
I replace all my springs when you do the work ?
A: In
MY opinion, NO.
Q:
How
much should I fire my gun before I send it in for your action work ?
A: None,
or as much as you want !
A:
Yes, you can use any ammo, but
on the other hand, why spend the money to have it fine tuned if all you
want to shoot is garbage?
I have heard this a dozen
times: "I had you work on my gun a few months ago, and now I am getting
a few misfires"
Q:
What ammo
would you recommend for my CARRY gun?
A: I
always recommend and use the HEAVIEST bullet for any caliber, and only
Federal brand.
Q:
What do
you recommend for cleaning & oiling of my gun?
A:
RIG #2 spray lube (by Birchwood Casey) or G96 spray lube
(www.g96.com) for CLEANING
& bore scrubbing, although it is sold as a lube, I find it is wonderful
for breaking down the carbon & powder residue, and lastly it will completely
neutralize any acid from your hands / sweat.
There are many gun cleaners / degreasers out there, I have found the ORIGINAL Birchwood Casey GunScrubber ( SKU 029057333442 ) to be the very best.
Other products worth mentioning are "TC-11 Ultimate Gun Coat©" and Boeshield T9 for rust prevention & rust neutralization. Q:
What is
the difference between NICKEL and HARDCHROME?
A:
Both finishes are available in Matte (Bead Blasted),
Satin (Brushed), or High Polished.
Q:
Do you
have any recommendations for a Holster?
A:
Well, to preserve the finish
on the slide, the best is any soft nylon holster, the next best would be leather
(preferably lined), and LASTLY would be Kydex/plastic because it WILL wear off the
slide finish the most.
And if you want an off the
rack leather holster, I would buy Galco. Q:
What EXACTLY
is your "TJ SIG-SAFE" safety device?
A:
It is a push button safety installed
on your Sig frame, it works very similar to that of a Remmington shotgun
safety except that it will also lock the hammer & slide as well as
the trigger.
More TJ SIG-SAFE Safety F.A.Q. Q:
Does the
polish and removal of the protective blue coating on the internals leave
the parts vulnerable to corrosion?
A:
Yes, and No, the parts are carbon
steel and WILL rust if you leave them dry and unprotected.
A:
PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE SECTION ! - *Note, I am NOT dispensing legal advice, only my opinions & understandings. My "ADVICE"... is at the "UPS
Store" (used to be Mailboxes Etc.), put "Machine Parts" on the slip for
contents, NOT GUNS, or GUN parts, TECHNICALLY you are NOT lying!
The UPS link below is only
THEIR rules, NOT law, but if you read CAREFULLY you will see this phrase
inserted towards the bottom "Firearms will be transported only between x.x.x.x.
AND between persons not otherwise prohibited from shipping firearms by
federal, state or local law."
This
is UPS's official policy:
2022 UPS UPDATE: https://www.ups.com/us/en/support/shipping-support/shipping-special-care-regulated-items/prohibited-items/firearms.page
I had been shipping with UPS for over 25+ years (this was originally written in 2011), ground & air, I do not know when, but at some point UPS changed policy (tariff = UPS rules, NOT laws) that you can only ship a handgun via air (2 day or overnight), and then changed it again that by UPS rules they only ship handguns OVERNIGHT + "ADULT SIGNATURE REQUIRED" .
*You may request insurance amount from me by what you think your gun, parts, & custom work will cost to REPLACE, and I recommend it.
** If I ship OTHER then PRIORITY OVERNIGHT SHIPPING I will NOT be held responsible for insurance.
*** Lastly... I AM willing and happy to ship on YOUR UPS or FEDEX account # - PRIORITY OVERNIGHT SHIPPING ONLY
Back up to "TJ's Shipping Directions" Q:
Do you
sell barrels, or what barrel do you recommend?
A:
Yes, I can sell you a factory Sig
barrel, or an aftermarket barrel.
Q:
Do you
accept credit cards or checks?
A:
NO, I accept CASH - MONEY ORDERS
- CASHIERS CHECKS . . . ONLY!
Q:
Why can't
I talk to you on the phone?
A:
Well, you CAN, just not for
free.
Q:
Can I
drop off my gun to you?
A:
YES, but there is a $100 fee (per visit) JUST to get in the door. Q:
Can you
convert a P229 to DAO (double action only), if so how much would it cost w/ a
trigger job?
A:
YES! NO PROBLEM! 229, 226, 228,
220, 245, 230, 232, 239 and most others!
Q:
Can you convert my Sig P226 to SAO?
A:
Yes, I have come up with a fairly direct method to make your Sig Sauer P226, P228, P229, P220 etc into an SAO (Single Action Only) handgun where the DA (Double Action) is non-functional. The only real problem becomes safety, with the gun in SAO there is no safe mode of carry other then hammer down. I can add my SIG-SAFE safety device and modify it to lock your trigger in SA mode. Alternatively I am perfecting a TJ propriatory SIG-SAFEv2 thumb safety for the left side of a standard "P series" Sig Sauer pistol (patent pending). You will need to sign a liability release prior to this modification.
Q:
Can you convert my Beretta 92F to SAO?
A:
Yes, I can to convert your Beretta 92 or 96 series (including Beretta M9 9mm) into an SAO (Single Action Only) handgun where the DA (Double Action) is non-functional. The only problem becomes safety, however on Beretta I can modify your existing safety (except D series) so it can basically be "cocked & locked". You will need to sign a liability release prior to this modification.
Q:
What is
the difference between the "Bobbed Hammer" and the "Semi Bobbed Hammer"
?
A:
The "Bobbed Hammer" is a FULL
bob, you will NOT be able to manually cock the hammer back without racking
the slide, it is the best for "legal liability defense".
Q:
If you
were to do a Level 1 or action job on my Sig would the single action slack
(take-up) be removed or minimized?
A:
NO, it will be SIGNIFICANTLY
smoothed and lightened up, but I cannot remove any of the actual "travel"
of the pull or you will render the DA mode nonfunctional. Q:
How light
can you make the trigger pull on my Sig DAK model?
A:
Each gun is different.
A:
Yes, whether there are factory
night sights available, or not, there is a 99% chance that I CAN get Tritium
night sights or inserts installed into your gun. Q:
How much
would it be to install a compensator on my SigSauer or Beretta?
A:
A Sig Sauer or Beretta match barrel & fitting
is typically $295, or on Beretta you can thread your existing barrel
to install a comp on it instead.
Sig is all the same
prices except you NEED to buy an extended barrel before a comp can be added; I can sell you a match barrel, or you can go buy one from
BarSto.
A:
The P228 or old model P226 (with welded sheetmetal slide) will never be as good as a P220. A:
My screws will not fit SOME Sig P226/P228/P229 models that were sold with grips not made my Sig Sauer / SigArms because my screws are the SAME size as Sig OEM factory grip screws.
I would always assume you have wood grips made by Nill or Altamont on your gun if my screws do not fit perfectly.
You have three options other then the screws that came with them..... A:
Wolff springs rarely break, unlike Sig springs, but the Sig springs have a different kind of load action, by being stranded they are 'supposed' to be better by design. A:
The short answer is it helps the gun not to rise as much when you shoot it,
The long answer... A:
The answer is NO, if I was to remove any of the "slack" it would render the DA mode non-operational.
A:
Just think about it...
A:
99% of extractor breakage is from a cartridge butting against the face of the extractor hook (usually from someone dropping one in the chamber and dropping the slide (BIG NO! NO!)), occasionally it is from the magazine prematurely releasing the round before the slide pulls the round out and guiding it under the extractor. Q:
Do you give a warranty on your custom work / action work? Q:
Will your custom work / action work void my manufacturer's warranty? Q:
Will you return my old parts after you replace them with new parts? Q:
Do you offer Police / Law Enforcement or FFL gun dealer discounts?
However... I am willing to barter for old handgun parts or broken guns! Q:
Do I need to clean my gun before shipping it to you?
Would you stop by and eat a pizza on the way to your dentist office for a checkup????? Q:
I
still have questions, how can I contact you ???
A:
Your first & easiest way to contact me is to E
Mail me all your questions.
I would also
recommend a Satin Polish on the barrel hood, not only to hide the scratches characteristic of Sigs, but also to smooth the function of the barrel / slide relationship ($25±), (Or High Polish barrel for $55±, or Polish & Jewell barrel for $125±) (± NOTE: Nitron plated barrels are $50 additional!)
Also I
recommend my stainless steel hex grip screws (for Sig pistols) ($15-$25),
Highlight the
front sight in a bright DayGlo (stock sights or night sights, same price $15), Super GritGrip tape $35,
Polish barrel round & tip $25*.
If you carry
the gun concealed I would definitely recommend "bobbing"
the hammer ($75) (making it mandatory D.A.O. on the FIRST shot) or possibly
if you still want to be able to cock the hammer manually, a semi
bob ($125) (helps eliminate snagging when drawing from clothing), and
if you do not have night sights already I recommend getting a set of Tritium
night sights ( Typically $185 - Sig ). ( All + S/H $$$ )
If you want Re-finishing / plating...
If you like silver, Satin Hard Chrome finish with matte frame is my personal favorite, or if
you prefer a non-reflective finish I recommend my Black
Teflon, or I can coat your gun in Duracoat which comes in hundreds of colors or a speckle or camo.
Throat & Polish barrel & feed ramp $75
Fit & Polish the Extractor $25
*(If it is an older 1911 then I recommend you go with the full COLT LEVEL 1 RELIABILITY PACKAGE" ($125-$250) instead of only the 2 items above.)
Action / Trigger Job $295 (*Encompases smoothing the ENTIRE pistol except where items are listed seperately)
New Match Commander Hammer $95 (*I know you "think" your hammer is match quality, but 99% are NOT)
New Match Trigger (3 hole) $85 (*or rework your trigger for $50)
Satin polish barrel $25 (unless you prefer high polish ($55) or jewelled ($125), that is just as good or better, all will smooth up the function)
DayGlo on the front sight $15
+S/H
TJ's Custom Gunworks Printable $ Price Selector Work List
what my trigger
does do (which the OEM Sig trigger doesn't) by it's specific ergonomic design
and being more
narrow and rounded, is that it guides your finger in so you tend to shoot
with
the trigger
in the crevice of your finger rather then shoot with the pad (your finger
tip).
You see many
people don't realize that a double action auto should be shot as a revolver,
NOT as a single
action auto like a 1911. On a 1911 you typically have a very minimal
trigger travel distance and usually a very light break (pull). You
have more leverage and strength in your finger the closer you get to the
inner part of your hand, so by shooting at the crevice, you will shoot
more stable and will also have the illusion of a lighter trigger pull.
You can get
HardChrome as well as Nickel in either "Matte" (glass bead blast dull finish),
"Satin" (a soft
brushed semi gloss texture), or "High Polish" (like a mirror).
The Teflon is
always a 100% flat non-reflective matte black coating.
Other choices are various PVD coatings (commonly refered to as DLC (Diamond-like Carbon)), these coatings are very hard & tough and come in a variety of colors that mimic finshes like Gold, Rose Gold, Titanium Nitrite, Chrome, Chameleon-Rainbow, Black-iron, and others, but PVD costs more then other finishes..
Duracoat is another good finish alternative, it is a 2-part epoxy type finish that comes in hundreds of colors, and Duracoat is also very suitable for more creative projects with multi-color speckled
or camoflauge results. We can even make exotic Duracoat patterns to your request:
1 - 2 - 3
should I have you do your work before or after I get the plating done ?
When I do the
plating, I do the smoothing BOTH before and AFTER I do the plating, that
is why some of my plating prices cost more then a "job shop" plater.
Please also note that if you send me a gun that does have the internal
parts plated, I will not be able to give you the same quality of work,
and often will have to charge you extra to remove the plating on certain
internal parts, or, on rare occasion, I will refuse to work on it altogether
(only if the internals are plated with NP3 or similar).
I do a very
special service and while there are many other gunsmiths out there, some
good and some bad, I feel that my work is unique.
My only true
response to that question is, take apart one of the guns that I have re-worked,
and do the same to one done by another gunsmith. I'm sure that when
you inspect the internal parts you will clearly see where all my time &
labor goes into. As you can read on my "TJ Info" web page, I have
taken the time & the challenge to go beyond the "normal' gunsmithing
techniques and have, by doing so, learned many "tricks" to make each action
work better then those done by others. These "tricks" can ONLY be
learned by years of trial & error experience, and experimentation on
my own prototype guns.
I have pioneered
many ideas in the handgun field, some are acknowledged but most are not,
as with so many inventors and innovators of our century and the last.
A:
My refinishing prices may INITIALLY appear higher then some of my competitors.
This is because
my plating prices also include metal preparation both BEFORE AND AFTER
the actual plating.
This is the ONLY way to fully assure that any
unwanted porosity will be eliminated and thus not effect the function parts.
My plating prices
also include cleaning up and inspecting all related internal parts,
as well as properly
fitting all the parts back together after plating, NOT just slopping everything
back together and saying "it fits good enough".
ASK MY COMPETITORS
IF THEY DO ALL THIS . . . THEN COMPARE PRICING.
Now for specifics
. . . the 245 = very good gun & design (yeah, I kind of invented it), the 232 = virtually the SAME
as the 230, personally I prefer the 230, the SigPro = junk (some brain
storm engineer thought it was smarter to complicate the mechanism
like the HK P7 rather then stay with the excellent design of the other
Sig line.) the new Sig "modular" designs like the 365 & 320, are cheap, but that is what you're getting, cheap parts and in my opinion, a very poor design. Generally speaking, I have found the Sig pistols made from about 2011-2015 were some of the worst of the Sigs, and the Navy models are the worst of the worst from Sig.
The best of the best has always been the older Sig P220, the original Sig (Browning BDA). I am also very fod of the P239 and P229. The P226 and P225 (including the older P6) sre still good workable guns, as are the P227, P224, and other "P" variants with standard hammer configurations.
Beretta 92/92 series = Good quality and design, as well as
the older S&W are OK, but anything made pre "MIM parts" or polymer (plastic!) (maybe 2000?)
is going to be much better then the current guns.
Glock, well to be honest I used to dislike them because from a mechanical design standpoint I have always hated all striker-fire pistols. But as the years pass, and I see so many Glock "wanna-be's" out there by just about every manufacturer, the simplicity of the original true Glocks have grown on me in compasison. Many people think I don't like Glocks and don't work on them. But in fact I always have worked on dozens and dozens of them though the decades.
My DayGlo™ is vibrant color coating for sights,
and it is very resistant to most solvents. It is available in Red, Orange,
Yellow, and Green. It does not have any effect in the night and does
not glo in the dark, that is what Tritium night sights are for. Yes,
it can be applied to any sight, whether it's a stock sight, a dot sight,
or a Tritium night sight.
I have found
that Meprolight has been the best company as far as warranty when they do go dead.
(they are not so good since Kimber bought them, but still better then some other night sight companies.)
I have boycotted
certain companies for 20 years + because of a severe lack of warrantee
honor. I don't want to name anyone in particular, but I'll say their
name starts with a Trij !
Many other companies
fall somewhere in between, and AmeriGlo has been great so far.
Unless the gun
has been used extensively without oil, the internals should be OK and not
need any replacements.
That being said....
I DO fully inspect the gun internals when I take it apart for my action
work, so if at the time of my inspection I see a weak/galled springs I
will inform you then and advise replacement at that time. Typically I am
able to polish out any galling and also re-tension the springs if needed
which "usually" is enough to make the gun function as good as new.
or "How
may rounds will it take to break in my gun?"
The myth that
you need to shoot your gun to break it in is based on the false idea
that the metal
is soft enough to "work in", FORTUNATLY ... modern guns are NOT that
soft !
Think of it
like this ... if it were soft enough to "break in" in 500 rounds, then
it would also
figure that
it would also be soft enough to WEAR OUT in maybe 5000 right ?
It won't happen,
except possibly in some cheap South American made guns.
You should shoot
it just enough to feel the difference when you get it back from me !
Q:
Can I
use ANY ammo after you work on my action?
Federal ammo has the best
quality control as well as the softest primers (that means the most reliable
detonation with a reduced mainspring.) Ammo I do NOT recommend using (for
reliability reasons, but is just fine for range & target shooting)
Fiocci, S&B (Sellier & Bellot), CCI or any ammo reloaded with CCI
primers. Reloads ARE OK, but it is the PRIMER quality and IF you seat the
primer PROPERLY that will make the difference, if they are seated TOO hard,
or NOT deep enough, you WILL get misfires.
I am ALWAYS willing to help
you, and get your gun shooting good enough to make you a happy customer,
but....
I will always explain the
problem first, thus far, it has been 100% true in each case.
The problem is bad ammo,
I always ask the customer to try good ammo, and if they still have a problem
to PLEASE LET ME KNOW, so far everyone always confirms that it WAS the
ammo.
Lets say you bought a nice
old 1970 Camaro, then you dropped $30,000 into an engine for it to make
it a 1/4 mile race car.....
Would you fill it up at
"Thrifty Gas" with "Regular Low Octane - Low Grade" on your way to the
track????
Probably not.
So why would you expect
your finely tuned gun to function flawlessly with bargain basement ammo?
That being said, I am ALWAYS
willing to increase the DA trigger pull so it WILL fire the junk ammo,
all I ask is for you to pay the S/H, it don't matter if it is a week later
or a year, my offer stands.
In .45 I recommend 230gr,
in .40 I recommend 180gr, in 9mm I recommend 147gr subsonic, and in .38
Special (Especially 5-shot revolvers!) I recommend 148gr FULL Wadcutter Match Ammo (the old FBI "cookie cutter" load).
GunScrubber is great stuff for cleaning crud and old oil residue, BUT... it COMPLETELY removes all traces of oil, so... IF you use GunScrubber, you MUST MAKE 100% SURE YOU GET FRESH OIL IN EVERY AREA THAT THE GUNSCRUBBER HAS CONTACTED OR SEEPED INTO.
The above also applies to "DIP CLEANING" methods!!!
I STRONGLY recommend that you NEVER use a "Dip Cleaning Tank" (Ultrasonic) method of cleaning your gun!
Do NOT DE-OIL ANY PART or part of your gun that you cannot RE-OIL!!!
HERE is an actual photo taken of a gun that was cleaned only 2-3 weeks earlier with an ultraconic dip cleaner,
this is VERY common and I have seen the same rust and damage MANY times from dip-cleaners!
You can also use most "Electric Motor Cleaners" or even "Brake Cleaners", both are usually available at auto parts stores.
I have tried MANY oils,
there are a few good ones and many bad ones,
I highly recommend "Tetra Gun Lubricant" or Advanced Weapons Technology Oil
for oiling the gun.
In MY opinion, you want any HEAVY OIL, and NOT a thin oil like
Breakfree or Miltec, and also NOT a thick or gummy grease or paste that will tar up after time.
CLICK HERE for photos of crutial OIL POINTS on Sig Sauer pistols.
TC-11 & Boeshield T-9 are the only treatments that I have found that actually DO work both in rust prevention as well as rust neutralization on parts already infected by rust (like this photo).
They should NOT to be used as your only lubricant though, in my opinion they are not suitable for actual firearm lubrication alone.
They are more for external protection & rust prevention.
You can use them as lube, but I feel it is better to supplement them with Tetra oil.
° Here is are some brief suggestions for cleaning your handguns.....
Assuming you can't
completely disassemble your gun, you can remove the slide/barrel, and
grips, then spray it all out good with Gunscrubber or brake cleaner,
let it all dry out (preferably by blowing it out with compressed air
to be SURE it is 100% dry, if you do not, it will RUST!), then spray
some light lube like Rig#2 or G96 into the mechanism, then blow out the
excess oil.
After that, "dot-oil" the contact areas with a descent medium weight
oil like TetraLube.
NEVER oil the firing pin, and NEVER spray
anything into the firing pin channel, not cleaner or oil.
If you are capable of removing the firing pin & spring then it is OK to wipe them down with oil, but you don't want the firing pin channel to fill with oil because it can act as a hydraulic dampener and it will cause missfires.
Option #2 would be to skip the Gunscrubber part, and just really blow out the gun internals with compressed air, then do the rest the same as above.
As for cleaning the barrel, I recommend a stainless bore brush and
solvent, or you can even use Rig#2 or G96 to scrub the gunk out. *If you use solvent, be sure to clean it all out and neutralize it with oil when finished.
Additionally always
scrub the extractor good with a toothbrush, and if you are able, remove the extractor
for cleaning at least every 5000 rounds.
Always be sure the first 1"
of the barrel chamber is DRY and has no oil, solvent, or any other
residue!
If oil is left in the chamber it can "tar" up with the heat & carbon from firing live ammo, and can form a skin inside the chamber that will grab onto the brass and cause jambing.
The NICKEL has a more "goldish"
hue, where the HARD CHROME has more of a silver to grey hue.
The hard chrome is a tougher
/ harder finish and more resistant to scuffing & scratches.
Both are great finishes,
it is really a question of personal preference on the color of the finish.
The SIG-SAFE© was invented & patented by TJ's Custom Gunworks.
CLICK
HERE FOR MORE DETAILED INFORMATION ON THE TJ SIG-SAFE
#1 The "TJ SIG-SAFE Safety" can ONLY be locked when the hammer is decocked (down position).
#2 When fully disassembling your pistol, you will need to have the "TJ SIG-SAFE Safety" in
the LOCKED position (button protruding on RIGHT side of frame) to remove the feed block.
#3 If you press the trigger hard enough to "test" the "TJ SIG-SAFE Safety" you will eventually
break internal parts, also do NOT try to cock the hammer or rack the slide back when the
"TJ SIG-SAFE Safety" is in the LOCKED position, when the "TJ SIG-SAFE Safety" is on the LOCKED position
it is designed to DISABLE ALL GUN FUNCTIONS.
BUT, the factory blue plating
on the parts will ALSO NOT PROTECT them from rust!
ALWAYS keep the internals
oiled, just like your car engine.
If you drove your car without
oil, what would happen to the internal parts?
Same thing with your guns.
And let me add.... the WORST
thing you can do is have your gun "tank dipped" or "tank cleaned" where
they submerse the gun to completely clean it. That will clean it really
good, but it will also REMOVE ALL OIL from the internals!
Again, in that case, I recommend
RIG #2 SPRAY LUBE or G96 to get into any areas you are not able to oil manually.
Q: What
is the LEGALITY of shipping my gun to you?
It IS legal to ship a gun to
ANYONE (* Anyone legally able to posses a firearm.), without ammo, with
any "common carrier" (UPS /FEDEX).
Do NOT listen to the IGNORANT misinformation
you might get from UPS or a "mail center".
(It is NOT legal to ship USPS (U.S. Postal Service) unless going to or from an FFL dealer.)
Ship to "TJ's Custom" rather
then "TJ's Custom Gunworks" as the addressee, it will eliminate problems
for YOU trying to explain to ignorant clerks that it IS legal to ship guns.
You must affix a UPS label
requesting an "Adult Signature Required" for delivery per UPS requirements, not law.
http://www.ups.com/content/us/en/resources/prepare/guidelines/firearms.html
Legally they cannot differentiate
between "Overnight" and "2-Day Air", but that is THEIR policy and YOUR judgment call.
The shipping is fine for them, it is if/when you need to file a loss or damage claim is when you will see the red tape and fine print and they WILL use it to void any claim and not pay the insurance.
I learned this with UPS in 2010!
2022 FEDEX UPDATE: Fedex prohibits anyone not holding a firearms license to ship firearms. (yes they may tender the shipment, but if anything happens to it they will use their rules to nullify an insurance claim.)
https://www.fedex.com/en-us/shipping/how-to-ship-firearms.html
(click "FedEx Express U.S. Terms and Conditions" and then click "FIREARMS")
If you want them to pay a claim then you need to ship PRIORITYOVERNIGHT + "ADULT SIGNATURE REQUIRED"
http://www.federalexpress.net/us/terms/express-ground/index.html
(click "FedEx Express U.S. Terms and Conditions" and then click "FIREARMS")
*or click HERE for the short version.
I learned the hard way what that really meant, what it meant was they could ship the guns, but if one got lost or damaged as was my case, the insurance that was on the package was nullified because of the UPS TARIFF (UPS shipping rules/agreements (NOT LAW)).
So they had collected 25 years of insurance from me and only then I found out that they would NOT pay up when it was needed!
I will ship your gun in PARTS (not an assembled gun) and it will be up to you to ENSURE that any loss or damage claim will be named & labeled as PARTS ONLY = NO FRAME/RECEIVER claimed or they will NOT PAY ANY INSURANCE!
I will do my part, but you will ultimately be responsible and have to do your part, together maybe we can stop UPS from taking advantage.
I will charge a $15 Service fee to cover pick-up & packing.
Yes, BarSto barrels are
very good, but I can't promise any additional accuracy over an OEM Sig barrel.
I can install it for you
and polish out the machine marks & flaws, but please note the delivery time is unreliable and may take 2 weeks or 4 months to get the barrel.
As for FireDragon stainless match barrels, contact me and I'll check stock, if available from them then no problem, but if not available IMEADIATELY,
then a "3 week delivery" usually realy means 3 - 6 MONTHS from them.
ALL gun work must be PREPAID,
that means you MUST send payment in the box WITH your gun.
NO CREDIT CARDS, NO CHECKS, NO PAYPAL, NO I.O.U., NO LAYAWAY!
I AM available to advise
you, but there is a minimum $10 fee for it.
I charge $150 per hour whether I am working on your gun, or giving you advice, it uses the same time from my day.
I will not count exact minutes on the phone, but we all need to try to be fair about it.
$150hr = $2.50 per minute, send as much as you feel you may need, any $ left over & can be credited to your gun work.
Before you complain, ask does your lawyer charge
you for phone time?
NEW FOR 2012 = I will accept Paypal payment for "PHONE CALL ADVICE TIME" only,
you can "Send Money" via paypal.com to TJsCustom@aol.com
I will NOT accept paypal for parts, labor, or anything else!
Or please DO email me your questions for FREE.
I am happy to answer all of your questions via email!!
Please keep your questions concise and separated, so I can answer them all properly and address each issue or question.
Please read my NEW
POLICIES web page for more info on all of this.
And it is by APPOINTMENT ONLY.
Just like a Doctor visit
or Lawyer's session.
$100 Per Visit Charge (drop off = 1 + pick up = 2 / 1+1=2 visits)
Please read my NEW
POLICIES web page for more information.
The fee is $35 in addition
to action work or a LEVEL 1 PACKAGE, or $95 alone.
The "Semi Bobbed Hammer"
is more like rounding off the rear of the hammer, I remove the rear serrations
that drag on clothing, but I deepen the front cocking serrations so you
can cock it faster and more positive if needed.
On the 229DAK that I have
worked on, arrive here at about 9-10 lbs, and leave at about 7-8lbs
I know this is contrary
to what you have read, but this is REAL LIFE measurements "direct pull
back" on MY scale, not mock-up measurements for a magazine article.
Yes, I can give you 5 or 6lb pull, but you will soon be crying to me about missfires, and you will have to pay the shipping fees both directions to get me to remedy the problem (increase your trigger pull).
Q:
Can you
install night sights in my "xxxxx" gun?
My full profile Beretta Tri-Mag comp is $895
+ refinishing + S/H, that includes the comp & threading & fitting.
Or you can install my smaller two port Sig comp on a Beretta also, that is $695
Custom made compensators can
run $1500-$5000+ depending on how many ports you want, full profile or 1/2 profile,
etc.
I can make ANY comp YOU
design, it is only a matter of cost and if it is worth it for YOU.
Because of BarSto's very unreliable delivery
times, I am open to you supplying the barrel, or I can get it if you prefer (will cost you more if I get it).
Barrel fitting (with Throat
& Polish) can run from $100-$250 depending on if you get the "drop-in"
or "match" barrel, and if you want the nasty machine marks polished out
of the outside surfaces.
Q:
Why does my Sig P220 feel better then my old model P226 / P228 after you worked on both?
It is not only a design difference, but also ALL the P228 & older P226 have a factory flaw, that is they do not strike the primer in the center, they hit at 1:00-2:00, so you need more mainspring tension to hit harder to compensate for the off center hit on the primer anvil. This increased mainspring tension directly results in a heavier DA pull.
Q:
Will your "TJ Sig Sauer Grip Screws" fit my new model wood grips?
or... I bought your TJ SigSauer grip screws but they are too short for my grips, WHY!?!?
Those grips require a SPECIAL length of screw, they are longer then the standard P226/P228/P229 screws, yet shorter then the P239 screws.
My screws are the exact same size as the original Sig factory screws, so no, they are not longer and will not fit better then OEM factory screws.
#1 You can dremel your grip holes a little so they will accept the standard Sig screw size (like my screws are).
#2 I can sell you EXTRA LONG screws and you can cut them down to the length you need. (Same price as my standard size screws $15 matte, $22 for satin polished, or $25 high polished) (+s/h)
#3 I can sell you two sets of my Sig 239 screws, but you will still need to file them down just a little so they do not protrude into the mag well.
Q:
Can you tell me what weight recoil spring I have by the color of the marking from Sig?
Are Wolff springs better then factory OEM Sig Sauer springs?
What recoil spring weight is best for my 1911 or SigSauer pistol?
An original factory Colt 1911 recoil spring is 15-16 lbs stock, the new trend is heavier springs 17-20 lbs from many manufacturers.
The heavier spring gives you less felt recoil, and more protection against frame battering, BUT the heavier spring is harder on the action work, and will make the gun much more likely to jamb from short recoil stroke if you don't hold it FULLY tight or use reduced loads.
Also a extra heavy recoil spring is more likely to wear the hammer / sear relationship, and more likely to give you a hammer follow to 1/2 cock.
Personally I normally go with the lighter end of the scale on springs, so on a 1911 or Sig 220 maybe 15-16 would be my personal choice.
As for Sig Sauer colored springs, they have changed colors/tensions MANY times through the years, so you can't tell the weight your spring is by paint color, gun model, or by spring length, they just put in whatever they feel like on any particular run of guns.
Q:
What exactly does a comp (compensator) do for a pistol ???
thus shooting flatter to give you faster recovery shots, and less felt recoil.
Think of it like this.....
If you fired your gun in the dark, you would see a funnel of flame following the bullet out of the muzzle, that is basically gasses & pressure.
The compensator (unlike a muzzle brake) is cupped (ie: open on top / closed on the bottom),
so as the gasses exit the barrel... the compensator catches a good portion of them and exhaust them upwards,
in return they push the compensator (and thus the entire gun) downwards.
So you feel less recoil and a lot less muzzle rise.
Therefore you return faster to your target, and with less shock to your hands/arms.
What is the difference between a "flash suppressor" / "muzzle brake" and a "compensator"?
A compensator is explained above by its function, design, and intended use/benifits,
where as a "flash suppressor" is not really designed for recoil reduction, but more for flash suppression.
DOJ defined flash suppressor:
"flash suppressor means any device designed, intended, or that functions to reduce or redirect muzzle
flash from the shooter's field of vision,"
http://search.doj.ca.gov/AGSearch/isysquery/8f85d944-b937-4eb1-83bc-5cacf6647524/11/lines/165-215/
Q:
Is anything that you can do that will take up the trigger slack on my Sig or remove some of the trigger travel?
Q:
What does polishing the breech face do for reliability?
When the round slides up at an angle under the extractor as it is loading, it is the breech face that the edge of the round is rubbing up against,
so the smoother it is, the less friction & resistance, so the round tends to slide "up and in" easier and more fluidly.
*But without adjusting the extractor tension correctly, it is a pointless modification.
Q:
Why do you recommend to "Fit & Polish" for my extractor?
Polishing the extractor face will generally make the extractor flow around the cartridge case rather then butt into it and gall on the brass,
think of it as if you pressed soft brass onto a ball bearing, rather then medium-rough concrete.
Which would give way to it and work around it, and which would grab it & lock onto it? grab = breakage.
An extractor with too much tension will not allow the round to chamber correctly because it restricts the case flow up the breech face.
An extractor with too little tension will not hold the spent cartridge tight enough to pull it out of the barrel chamber after it is fired and the brass expands into the chamber.
The "Extractor Fit & Polish" modification will encompass polishing the extractor face, adjusting the tension, and very often undercutting the hook to enhance the extractor "biting" onto the cartridge case.
Q:
Why do you recommend a "Satin Polish" on my barrel hood?
A: I usually recommend that I do a satin polish on the barrel because it will not only make it look nicer but it will smooth the slide function by rounding the sharp edges and changing the direction of the graining to follow the slide / barrel friction travel path.
You will usually FEEL the difference when you cycle the slide manually after the satin barrel polish (or high polish or jewell).
The same recomendation would be to polish the barrel "round" (the exterior round part of the barrel where the rifling is inside), polishing this part of the barrel really helps smooth the cycling of the slide.
Q:
I watched your "TJ's Sig Sauer Disassembly & Reassembly DVD",
Where can I get a good alignment punch to help me on disassembly & reassembly?
A: I recommend the Mayhew SP-5 from Brownell's web site.
The punch you want is Brownells number 080-645-007
www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=697/Product/GUNSMITH_S_ALIGNMENT_PINS
Also, the SnapOn mini needle nose pliers E770AC & E770ACG are discontinued, but you can find used ones or old stock sometimes,
the current E703BCG is a much longer needle nose plier and not really as good,
you would be better off finding another brand, what you want is 5" - 5.5" overall length, it works best.
Q:
Does your Level I package increase the accuracy of my pistol or does just make it easier for me to shoot it accurately, or both?
A: My LEVEL 1 action package does NOT make the "GUN" more accurate, it does make it much smoother & reliable, but more importantly
what it does is by making the trigger pull smoother & lighter, it makes "YOU" shoot more accuratly thus giving the illusion that the
gun itself is all of a sudden shooting much tighter groups!
Q:
Do you have suggested modifications for left handed Sig shooters?
A: I am not left handed myself, but going by what left handed customers have told me and ordered,
The "Heat & Bend Up Slide Release" allows LH shooters reach the slide release MUCH easier.
I can also move the magazine release to the right side of the gun very easily.
I am unable to move the decocker, slide catch, or take down lever to the right side of the gun though.
Q:
Which is the best 1911 choice to buy as a base gun to work on?
A: In my opinion, Kimber might be the best 1911's for the money vs quality.
Ed Brown is always good quality, Les Baer is also good, but typically need extra smoothing, Colt is obviously a good standard choice for a basic 1911,
Detonics (WA or AZ generations, not GA) were excellent guns if you can find one, Nighthawk build good guns, but do typically have issues with the slide catch from my observations,
S&W, Wilson, Ruger, Remington and a few other makers will fall in mid-quality range. At the bottom of my list as far as internal quality is Rock Island (RIA), Springfield Armory, ParaOrd, and Sig Sauer.
I have worked on hundreds and hundreds of 1911's. I know quality can change from lot to lot, and definitely from year to year.
So this is just general, my choices & opinions from what I have observed.
Q:
Can you install the Sig SRT parts in my standard SA/DA Sig?
A: The "SRT conversion" is only 2 internal parts, not a trigger.
If I am doing a full action package I can add/swap to the SRT parts for $120 more, if not then the conversion is $200 alone.
Personally I do not recommend wasting the $ on the SRT parts, you will BARELY notice any difference at all, but I can install the parts if you insist.
It is hype & BS that the trigger pull will be significantly shorter or faster, you might see 6% +/- difference, NOT 60%!!!
And after my action work, side by side, you really can't even tell the difference between the SRT and the standard parts.
Q:
How light can you make my DA (Double Action), on my Sig pistol?
A: I usually ask my customers this question.....
"On the trigger pull / mainspring (DA trigger pull) on a scale of 1-5,
1 being light and setup for new Federal ammo, and 5 being firm where
you can use anything except CCI, Fiocci, Wolff, and junk reloads,
reliably. (if you get a missfire it would be on a slow DA pull, never a fast DA
pull or SA pull).
(Note: If you figure it on MY "scale" a factory mainspring would rate 6-8
(that is NOT pounds, just my scale))
It is easy to adjust either way later, but of course it would involve
shipping costs, even if only the mainspring is sent.
So where would you like me to set your gun's DA pull at?"
So the actual answer can be from 8lbs to 11lbs, it varies from gun to gun by the vintage and luck of the draw, and also the gun model also plays a large factor.
Q:
Can I send you parts I bought myself for you to install, instead of buying the parts from you?
A: Sights are not a problem. Other parts will be judged individually by brand/quality and job requested. Generally I am willing, but often there is extra labor, and you will be charged accordingly.
I remember when I was an auto mechanic many decades ago, we had a sign from the 50's up on the wall, it had a sketch of a
waitress holding a breakfast plate of bacon & eggs, and the sign read
"You wouldn't bring your own eggs & pork to a diner to cook, don't bring us YOUR parts to install". Think about that.
A: NO ... yes you read it right.... NO.
That being said, I treat it simply.... if I screwed something up, OF COURSE I'll make it right!
However if after I work on your gun, you have any problem not directly related to something I screwed up, then I am not responsible.
THAT being said, I still usually am willing to fix it anyway, or try to remedy your problem anyway just to give good customer service, but I ask YOU to pay the S/H both directions.
Same goes if you decide you want your trigger pull lighter or heavier, YOU to pay the S/H both directions and I'll cover the labor.
Attitude is everything with me, so if you ask nice, I will almost always go the extra mile for my customers, but if I hear "you worked on my gun and now I'm getting missfires", well you are only going to be re-directed to this FAQ page to READ it again to see WHY you are getting those missfires.
If you want to use junk ammo, you need to tell me BEFORE I do the work, also if you are LEFT HANDED please tell me in advance because you will need a slightly heavier DA pull to have reliable on detonation. (I can not fully explain why, but it is the way the trigger/trigger bar pull the hammer back differs from a RH or LH angle of pull)
PLEASE read my "TJ's Custom Gunworks Standard Work Policy Disclosure & Liability Disclaimer" for more on all of my policies.
A: Probably YES, not because my work is not a significant improvement over the factory work, but because they will use ANY custom work performed by ANY gunsmith
as an EXCUSE to limit their liabity / warranty.
Occasionally you get some straight & honest person / company, but I have heard that typically they use the "custom work" as a out so they don't have to fix your gun for free.
PLEASE read my "TJ's Custom Gunworks Standard Work Policy Disclosure & Liability Disclaimer" for more on all of my policies.
A: NO, not unless you request it IN ADVANCE, and usually pay a small core charge.
Yes, just like almost all auto parts stores, they charge a core fee until you return the old parts.
I do sell off the old take off parts as scrap to the "garage gunsmiths" to tinker with.
I have no problem returning your old parts to you, just a small extra fee that's all.
PLEASE read my "TJ's Custom Gunworks Standard Work Policy Disclosure & Liability Disclaimer" for more on all of my policies.
A: No, I'm sorry I don't.
Around 80%-90% of my business are PD/LEO or FFL clients, so it would be unfair to raise the price for only the minority 10% +/- of
regular customers,
especially when that 10% are typically my best customers ordering more substantial custom work then that
usually requested by P.D. officers etc.
I have in past years made many ongoing arrangements with Police officers to trade gun parts (stripped from confiscated handguns) in trade for my custom work & repairs.
(FYI, when handguns are scheduled for destruction it is usually only the frame that is required to be destroyed as that is the ONLY part of a handgun
that is legally the "gun" and registered, so all remaining parts including barrel, slide, and all small parts, are considered scrap and/or non-essestial parts and have no legal binding for destruction).
I usually welcome trades or bartering of guns, parts, knives, watches, gold, etc...
Starting Jan 1, 2012 I am charging a minimum fee of $35 for any gun sent in that is filthy or gummy with grease.
If your gun is just dusty, or you ran a couple mags though it then it is no problem, no charge.
BUT if you have not cleaned you gun in 100's or 1000's of rounds, you can expect to pay a cleaning fee ($35 - $95)
Also if you gun is clean, but you have filled it with any grease, Froglube, or anything similar, it is MINIMUM of $35 cleaning fee (Froglube = $95 cleaning).
If you send me your gun without the cleaning fee and I find it filthy or greased up, I will contact you for the extra $, so don't be shocked.
Probably not, so think about it please. Or, just send the cleaning fee $ and that is all good too.
You are pre-warned so please be fair & considerate.
*Please note the $35 "MINIMUM GUN CLEANING FEE" does NOT include complete disassembly or barrel scrubbing/deleading.
If you write
BRIEF questions, and separate them in INDIVIDUAL lines/subjects, I will be able
to address each question much better and more thoroughly.
The other alternative
is to send me $10 in cash or money order and I will call you.
( Please try
to include the best times to call you in the afternoon or evenings. )
I know there
will be some people out there that will view this solely as arrogance,
it is not.
I used to
spend 50%-70% of my "open hours" talking and answering questions for free
and getting paid nothing for this service.
No work was getting done and guns started to back log.
As of "March
2000" I am no longer a free directory assistance and free data bank.
I am very glad to continue to provide the service to you, only I want to be
compensatied for my time, just like any doctor or lawyer,
I don't think I am being that unreasonable.
I feel that
if someone is willing to send me $10 then at least they are probably a serious customer,
and
if they are not willing to part with $10 then they are probably only looking
for free advice and to waste my time.
TJ's Custom Gunworks
PO Box 328
Culver City,
CA
90232,
USA
Please ship your gun(s) here : NOTE: THE ADDRESS BELOW IS FOR UPS/FEDEX SHIPPING ONLY - NO DROP OFFS!!!
TJ's Custom
3347 Caroline
Ave.
Culver City,
CA
90232, USA
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