TJ's Custom Gunworks
Frequently Asked Questions









Here is a compilation of some of the most frequently asked questions that I have received,  if you feel I have omitted something important, or you feel you have something of value you would like me to add...
PLEASE e mail me !
 

Question :

OK, I decided I want you to do some work on my gun, now what ?
What is the best way to ship you my gun(s)?

I would like to order some of your parts, what do I need to do ?

What work would YOU recommend for my pistol ?

Do I need to clean my gun before shipping it to you?

I still have questions, how can I contact you ?????

Do you accept credit cards or checks?

Why can't I talk to you on the phone?

Can I drop off my gun to you in person?

What is the LEGALITY of shipping my gun to you?

Do you offer Police / Law Enforcement or FFL gun dealer discounts?

Will your "Short" trigger really make the reach to the trigger closer ?

What is the toughest finish for my gun ?

What exactly is your "DayGlo™"  sight highlighting and can you do it on night sights ?

If I get my gun plated, should I have you do your work before or after I get the plating done ?

Why does your action job cost more than some of your competitors ?

Why does your plating cost more than some of your competitors ?

What do you think about the new Sig's ?

Does your SIG LEVEL 1 package increase the accuracy of my pistol or does it make easier for me to shoot it accurately, or both?

Why do you prefer Meprolight sights over the other brands ?

How much should I fire my gun before I send it in for action work ?

Should I replace all my springs when you do the work ?

Can you convert a P229 to double action only, if so how much would it cost w/ a trigger job?

How light can you make the trigger pull on my Sig DAK model?

Can you install night sights in my "xxxxx" gun?

How much would it cost to install a compensator on my Sig or Beretta?
I want a special design compensator, can you make one for me?

Can I use ANY ammo after you work on my action?

What ammo would you recommend for my CARRY gun?

What do you recommend for cleaning & oiling of my gun?

What is the difference between NICKEL and HARDCHROME?

Does the polish and removal of the protective blue coating on the internal leave the parts vulnerable to corrosion?

If you were to do a Level 1 or action job on my Sig would the single action slack (take-up) be removed or minimized?

Do you have any recommendations for a Holster?

What EXACTLY is your "TJ SIG-SAFE" safety device?

Why does my Sig P220 feel better then my P228 (or old model P226) after you worked on both?

Will your "TJ Sig Sauer Grip Screws" fit my new model wood grips?

Can you tell me what weight recoil spring I have by the color of the spring marking from Sig?
Are Wolff springs better then factory OEM Sig Sauer springs?
What recoil spring weight is best for my 1911 or SigSauer pistol?

What exactly does a comp (compensator) do for a pistol?
What is the difference between a "flash suppressor" / "muzzle brake" and a "compensator"?

Is anything that you can do to take up the trigger slack or remove some of the trigger travel?

What does polishing the breech face do for reliability?

Why do you recommend to "Fit & Polish" for my extractor?

Why do you recommend a "Satin Polish" on my barrel hood?

Will you return my old parts after you replace them with new custom parts?

Will your custom work / action work void my manufacturer's warranty?

Do you give a warranty on your custom work / action work?

Do you have suggested modifications for LEFT handed Sig shooters?

I watched your "TJ's Sig Sauer Disassembly & Reassembly DVD",
Where can I get a good alignment punch to help me on disassembly & reassembly?



 
 

Q: OK, I decided I want you to do some work on my gun, now what ?

A: You simply send me your gun directly, via UPS or FedEx (NOT US MAIL / U.S. Postal service),
INCLUDE WORK PAYMENT IN THE BOX WITH YOUR GUN.
(CASH, Money Order, or Cashiers Check / Bank Check are the ONLY accepted payment methods)
(NO CREDIT CARDS, NO CHECKS, NO PAYPAL, NO I.O.U.'s, Etc.)

Personally I recommend that you do not tell the "mail store clerk" that you are shipping a gun,
I suggest saying it is machine parts instead, but that is your judgment call, not mine.
I am a licenced FFL dealer and it IS legal to ship to me.

*Please mark the outside of the box "DELIVER AFTER 11:00 AM ONLY"
DO make sure you insure the parcel for at LEAST the replacement cost + payments.
Please ship in the SMALLEST box that will still protect your gun.
UPS charges for "dimensional weight" as well as "actual weight" whichever is greater.
(ie: a big box that weighs 3lbs, will be billed at 12lbs = $50+ additional fees)
Please also be sure to read the LEGALITY & TARIFF rules for UPS / Fedex.

*Please note that if you do not ship OVERNIGHT + "Adult Signature Required"
UPS or Fedex will NOT pay any insurance claim! So ship it right.

The delivery address for UPS or FedEx ONLY is:
TJ's Custom - 3347 Caroline Ave. - Culver City - CA - 90232
NO "DROP OFF" OR VISITORS ALLOWED - NO EXCEPTIONS
 

Q: I would like to order some of your parts, what do I need to do ?

A: Just send payment  (CASH (wrapped in newspaper etc.), Money Order, or Cashiers Check / Bank Check)
(I will accept personal checks for parts only, but there will be a 15 business day hold before shipping)
Ship to the address below with a request describing what it is you want to order, the model of your gun and the color / finish of the parts you are requesting.

Include an email address in case there is any problem or question I have about your order.
Make SURE your address is very readable & legible.
Parts are NOT insured unless you pay insurance charges (+$5.00) and request insurance,
I am NOT responsible for parts once I deliver them to the post office.
( In case anyone missed it above, I do NOT accept ANY credit cards or Paypal EVER. )
 

Q: What work would YOU recommend for my pistol ?

A: On Sig's or other DA autos, I would start with a "Level 1 Package" (Typically $399 =s/h) ( my Level 1 Package includes all the Action work & internal smoothing, a TJ stainless short rounded trigger (Sig 220, 225, 226, 228, 229, 245) or customizing your existing trigger by rounding-radiusing-polishing (re-shaping it to be much more ergonomic and have a nice smooth silver finish), a throat & polish of the feed ramp & barrel to ensure a high level of feeding reliability, and fit & polish the extractor (to enhance case extraction as well as reduce the chance of extractor breakage).
I would also recommend a Satin Polish on the barrel hood, not only to hide the scratches characteristic of Sigs, but also to smooth the function of the barrel / slide relationship ($25±), (Or High Polish barrel for $55±, or Polish & Jewell barrel for $125±) (± NOTE: Nitron plated barrels are $45 additional!)
Also I recommend my stainless steel hex grip screws (for Sig pistols) ($15-$25),
Highlight the front sight in a bright DayGlo (stock sights or night sights, same price $15),
If you carry the gun concealed I would definitely recommend "bobbing" the hammer ($75) (making it mandatory D.A.O. on the FIRST shot) or possibly if you still want to be able to cock the hammer manually, a semi bob ($125) (helps eliminate snagging when drawing from clothing), and if you do not have night sights already I recommend getting a set of Meprolight night sights ( Typically $165 - Sig ).  ( All + S/H $$$ )
Finish?  If you like silver,  Satin Hard Chrome finish with matte frame is my personal favorite, or if you prefer a non-reflective finish I recommend my Black Teflon.

On 1911's what I always recommend to start with is this as fundamentals.....

Throat & Polish barrel & feed ramp $65
Fit & Polish the Extractor $25
*(If it is an older 1911 then I recommend you go with the full COLT LEVEL 1 RELIABILITY PACKAGE" ($125-$250) instead of only the 2 items above.)
Action / Trigger Job $295   (*Encompases smoothing the ENTIRE pistol except where items are listed seperately)
New Match Commander Hammer $95   (*I know you "think" your hammer is match quality, but 99% are NOT)
New Match Trigger (3 hole) $85   (*or rework your trigger for $50)
Satin polish barrel $25 (unless you prefer high polish ($55) or jewelled ($125), that is just as good or better, all will smooth up the function)
DayGlo on the front sight $15
+S/H

 

Q:  Will your "Short" trigger really make the reach to the trigger closer ?

A:  Not really, you see there is only about 1/8" of material that you have to play with there,
what my trigger does do (which the Sig trigger doesn't) by it's specific ergonomic design
and being more narrow and rounded, is that it guides your finger in so you tend to shoot with
the trigger in the crevice of your finger rather than shoot with the pad (your finger tip).
You see many people don't realize that a double action auto should be shot as a revolver, NOT as a single action auto like a 1911.  On a 1911 you typically have a very minimal trigger travel distance and usually a very light break (pull).  You have more leverage and strength in your finger the closer you get to the inner part of your hand, so by shooting at the crevice, you will shoot more stable and will also have the illusion of a lighter trigger pull.
 

Q: What is the toughest finish for my gun ?

A: Black Teflon is the most corrosion resistant without a doubt, however, HardChrome is the toughest, and will basically never wear out and is extremely resistant to scratches and holster wear.  HardChrome is basically the equivalent of a super hardened stainless steel plating.
You can get HardChrome as well as Nickel in either "Matte" (glass bead blast dull finish),
"Satin" (a soft brushed semi gloss texture), or "High Polish" (like a mirror).
The Teflon is always a 100% flat non-reflective matte black coating.

Q: If I want to get my gun plated,
                  should I have you do your work before or after I get the plating done ?

A: Well . . . assuming that you do not want me to do the plating work, you should have the gun plated BEFORE my work, not after.  Be SURE that the plater does NOT plate ANY internal parts, as it changes tolerances and adds porosity.  This is exactly the reason you want to plate it before my work.  If I do the work and then you have it plated, parts like the hammer, slide, etc.,  that you will undoubtingly have plated, will no longer have the smooth mirror finish I put on them and you will wonder what happened to that smooth function you just paid me for.
When I do the plating, I do the smoothing BOTH before and AFTER I do the plating, that is why some of my plating prices cost more than a "job shop" plater.  Please also note that if you send me a gun that does have the internal parts plated, I will not be able to give you the same quality of work, and often will have to charge you extra to remove the plating on certain internal parts, or, on rare occasion, I will refuse to work on it altogether (only if the internals are plated with NP3 or nickel).

Q: Why does your action job cost more than some of your competitors ?

A: First of all, I do not feel as though I have any competitors.
I do a very special service and while there are many other gunsmiths out there, some good and some bad, I feel that my work is unique.
My only true response to that question is, take apart one of the guns that I have re-worked, and do the same to one done by another gunsmith.  I'm sure that when you inspect the internal parts you will clearly see where all my time & labor goes into.  As you can read on my "TJ Info" web page, I have taken the time & the challenge to go beyond the "normal' gunsmithing techniques and have, by doing so, learned many "tricks" to make each action work better than those done by others.  These "tricks" can ONLY be learned by years of trial & error experience, and experimentation on my own prototype guns. I have pioneered many ideas in the handgun field, some are acknowledged but most are not, as with so many inventors and innovators of our century and the last.

Q: Why does your plating cost more than some of your competitors ?
A: My refinishing prices may INITIALLY appear higher then some of my competitors.
This is because my plating prices also include metal preparation both BEFORE AND AFTER the actual plating.  This is the ONLY way to fully assure that any unwanted porosity will be eliminated and thus not effect the function parts.
My plating prices also include cleaning up and inspecting all related internal parts,
as well as properly fitting all the parts back together after plating, NOT just slopping everything back together and saying "it fits good enough".
ASK MY COMPETITORS IF THEY DO ALL THIS . . . THEN COMPARE PRICING.

Q: What do you think about the new Sig's ?

A: As with nearly all things made today, the quality SEVERELY falls behind the quality of the same items made years earlier.  A gun made 10 years ago is MUCH better than one made today, and one made 15 years ago is MUCH better than that one !  The current cast hammers fall FAR behind the quality / workmanship / workability of the older machined hammers.
Now for specifics . . . the 245 = very good gun & design, the 232 = virtually the SAME as the 230, personally I prefer the 230, the SigPro = JUNK (some brain storm engineer  thought it was smarter to complicate the mechanism like the HK P7 rather than stay with the excellent design of the other Sig line.)  Beretta = Good quality and design, as well as S&W are OK, but anything made pre "MIM parts" or polymer (plastic!) (maybe 2000?) is going to be much better then the current guns.
 

Q: What exactly is your "DayGlo™"  sight highlighting and can you do it on night sights ?

A: My "Day-Glo™" sight highlighting is a bright florescent color coating that I apply to the face of your front sight, it is very bright and draws your eye(s) to the front sight in the daytime.
My DayGlo™ is vibrant color coating for sights, and it is very resistant to most solvents.  It is available in Red, Orange, Yellow, and Green.  It does not have any effect in the night and does not glo in the dark, that is what Tritium night sights are for.  Yes, it can be applied to any sight, whether it's a stock sight, a dot sight, or a Tritium night sight.

Q: Why do you prefer Meprolight sights over the other brands ?

A: There are good and bad sights out there, and there are good and bad companies out there.
I have found that Meprolight has been the best company as far as warranty when they do go dead.
(they are not so good since Kimber bought them, but still better then other night sight companies.)

I have boycotted certain companies for 20 years + because of a severe lack of warrantee honor.  I don't want to name anyone in particular, but I'll say their name starts with a Trij !
Many other companies fall somewhere in between, and AmeriGlo has been great so far.

Q: Should I replace all my springs when you do the work ?

A: In MY opinion, NO.
Unless the gun has been used extensively without oil, the internals should be OK and not need any replacements.
That being said.... I DO fully inspect the gun internals when I take it apart for my action work, so if at the time of my inspection I see a weak/galled springs I will inform you then and advise replacement at that time. Typically I am able to polish out any galling and also re-tension the springs if needed which "usually" is enough to make the gun function as good as new.

Q: How much should I fire my gun before I send it in for your action work ?
        or  "How may rounds will it take to break in my gun?"

A: None, or as much as you want !
The myth that you need to shoot your gun to break it in is based on the false idea
that the metal is soft enough to "work in",  FORTUNATLY ... modern guns are NOT that soft !
Think of it like this ... if it were soft enough to "break in" in 500 rounds, then it would also
figure that it would also be soft enough to WEAR OUT in maybe 5000 right ?
It won't happen, except possibly in some cheap South American made guns.
You should shoot it just enough to feel the difference when you get it back from me !

Q:  Can I use ANY ammo after you work on my action?

A:   Yes, you can use any ammo, but on the other hand, why spend the money to have it fine tuned if all you want to shoot is garbage?
Federal ammo has the best quality control as well as the softest primers (that means the most reliable detonation with a reduced mainspring.) Ammo I do NOT recommend using (for reliability reasons, but is just fine for range & target shooting) Fiocci, S&B (Sellier & Bellot), CCI or any ammo reloaded with CCI primers. Reloads ARE OK, but it is the PRIMER quality and IF you seat the primer PROPERLY that will make the difference, if they are seated TOO hard, or NOT deep enough, you WILL get misfires.

I have heard this a dozen times: "I had you work on my gun a few months ago, and now I am getting a few misfires"
I am ALWAYS willing to help you, and get your gun shooting good enough to make you a happy customer, but....
I will always explain the problem first, thus far, it has been 100% true in each case.
The problem is bad ammo, I always ask the customer to try good ammo, and if they still have a problem to PLEASE LET ME KNOW, so far everyone always confirms that it WAS the ammo.
Lets say you bought a nice old 1970 Camaro, then you dropped $30,000 into an engine for it to make it a 1/4 mile race car.....
Would you fill it up at "Thrifty Gas" with "Regular Low Octane - Low Grade" on your way to the track????
Probably not.
So why would you expect your finely tuned gun to function flawlessly with bargain basement ammo?
That being said, I am ALWAYS willing to increase the DA trigger pull so it WILL fire the junk ammo, all I ask is for you to pay the S/H, it don't matter if it is a week later or a year, my offer stands.

Q:  What ammo would you recommend for my CARRY gun?

A:  I always recommend and use the HEAVIEST bullet for any caliber, and only Federal brand.
In .45 I recommend 230gr, in .40 I recommend 180gr, in 9mm I recommend 147gr subsonic, and in .38 Special (Especially 5-shot revolvers!) I recommend 148gr FULL Wadcutter Match Ammo (the old FBI "cookie cutter" load).

Q:  What do you recommend for cleaning & oiling of my gun?

A:   RIG #2 spray lube (by Birchwood Casey) or G96 spray lube (www.g96.com) for CLEANING & bore scrubbing, although it is sold as a lube, I find it is wonderful for breaking down the carbon & powder residue, and lastly it will completely neutralize any acid from your hands / sweat.
GunScrubber is great stuff for cleaning crud and old oil residue, BUT... it COMPLETELY removes all traces of oil, so... IF you use GunScrubber, you MUST MAKE 100% SURE YOU GET FRESH OIL IN EVERY AREA THAT THE GUNSCRUBBER HAS CONTACTED OR SEEPED INTO.
The above also applies to "DIP CLEANING" methods!!!
I STRONGLY recommend that you NEVER use a "Dip Cleaning Tank" (Ultrasonic) method of cleaning your gun!
Do NOT DE-OIL ANY PART or part of your gun that you cannot RE-OIL!!!
HERE is an actual photo taken of a gun that was cleaned only 2-3 weeks earlier with an ultraconic dip cleaner,
this is VERY common and I have seen the same rust and damage MANY times from dip-cleaners!

There are many gun cleaners / degreasers out there, i have found the ORIGINAL Birchwood Casey GunScrubber ( SKU 029057333442 ) to be the very best.
You can also use most "Electric Motor Cleaners" or even "Brake Cleaners", both are usually available at auto parts stores.

I have tried MANY oils, there are a few good ones and many bad ones,
I highly recommend "Tetra Gun Lubricant" for oiling the gun.
In MY opinion, you want any HEAVY OIL, and NOT a thin oil like Breakfree or Miltec, and also NOT a thick or gummy grease or paste that will tar up after time.
CLICK HERE for photos of crutial OIL POINTS on Sig Sauer pistols.

Other products worth mentioning are "TC-11 Ultimate Gun Coat©" and Boeshield T9 for rust prevention & rust neutralization.
TC-11 & Boeshield T-9 are the only treatments that I have found that actually DO work both in rust prevention as well as rust neutralization on parts already infected by rust (like this photo).
They should NOT to be used as your only lubricant though, in my opinion they are not suitable for actual firearm lubrication alone.
They are more for external protection & rust prevention.
You can use them as lube, but I feel it is better to supplement them with Tetra oil.

Q:  What is the difference between NICKEL and HARDCHROME?

A:   Both finishes are available in Matte (Bead Blasted), Satin (Brushed), or High Polished.
The NICKEL has a more "goldish" hue, where the HARD CHROME has more of a silver to grey hue.
The hard chrome is a tougher / harder finish and more resistant to scuffing & scratches.
Both are great finishes, it is really a question of personal preference on the color of the finish.
 

Q:  Do you have any recommendations for a Holster?

A:   Well, to preserve the finish on the slide, the best is any soft nylon holster, the next best would be leather (preferably lined), and LASTLY would be Kydex/plastic because it WILL wear off the slide finish the most. And if you want an off the rack leather holster, I would buy Galco.

Q:  What EXACTLY is your "TJ SIG-SAFE" safety device?

A:   It is a push button safety installed on your Sig frame, it works very similar to that of a Remmington shotgun safety except that it will also lock the hammer & slide as well as the trigger.
CLICK HERE FOR MORE DETAILED INFORMATION ON THE TJ SIG-SAFE

More TJ SIG-SAFE Safety F.A.Q.
#1 The "TJ SIG-SAFE Safety" can ONLY be locked when the hammer is decocked (down position).
#2 When fully disassembling your pistol, you will need to have the "TJ SIG-SAFE Safety" in the LOCKED position (button protruding on RIGHT side of frame) to remove the feed block.
#3 If you press the trigger hard enough to "test" the "TJ SIG-SAFE Safety" you will eventually break internal parts, also do NOT try to cock the hammer or rack the slide back when the "TJ SIG-SAFE Safety" is in the LOCKED position, when the "TJ SIG-SAFE Safety" is on the LOCKED position it is designed to DISABLE ALL GUN FUNCTIONS.

Q:  Does the polish and removal of the protective blue coating on the internal leave the parts vulnerable to corrosion?

A:   Yes, and No, the parts are carbon steel and WILL rust if you leave it dry and unprotected.
BUT, the factory blue plating on the parts will ALSO NOT PROTECT them from rust!
ALWAYS keep the internals oiled, just like your car engine.
If you drove your car without oil, what would happen to the internal parts?
Same thing with your guns.
And let me add.... the WORST thing you can do is have your gun "tank dipped" or "tank cleaned" where they submerse the gun to completely clean it. That will clean it really good, but it will also REMOVE ALL OIL from the internals!
Again, in that case, I recommend RIG #2 SPRAY LUBE or G96 to get into any areas you are not able to oil manually.

Q:  What is the LEGALITY of shipping my gun to you?

A:   PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE SECTION !
It IS legal to ship a gun to ANYONE (* Anyone legally able to posses a firearm.), without ammo, with any "common carrier" (UPS /FEDEX).
Do NOT listen to the IGNORANT misinformation you might get from UPS or a "mail center".
(It is NOT legal to ship USPS (U.S. Postal Service))

My "ADVICE"... is a the "UPS Store" (used to be Mailboxes Etc.), put "Machine Parts" on the slip for contents, NOT GUNS, or GUN parts, TECHNICALLY you are NOT lying!
Ship to "TJ's Custom" rather then "TJ's Custom Gunworks" as the addressee, it will eliminate problems for YOU trying to explain to ignorant clerks that it IS legal to ship guns.

The UPS link below is only THEIR rules, NOT law, but if you read CAREFULLY you will see this phrase inserted towards the bottom "Firearms will be transported only between x.x.x.x. AND between persons not otherwise prohibited from shipping firearms by federal, state or local law."
You must affix a UPS label requesting an "Adult Signature Required" for delivery per UPS requirements, not law.

This is UPS's official policy:
http://www.ups.com/content/us/en/resources/prepare/guidelines/firearms.html
Legally they cannot differentiate between "Overnight" and "2-Day Air", but that is THEIR policy and YOUR judgment call.
The shipping is fine for them, it is if/when you need to file a loss or damage claim is when you will see the red tape and fine print and they WILL use it to void any claim and not pay the insurance.
This I just learned with UPS AUG2010!

Federal Express (FedEx) is nearly the same deal.
If you want them to pay a claim then you need to ship PRIORITYOVERNIGHT + "ADULT SIGNATURE REQUIRED"
http://www.federalexpress.net/us/terms/express-ground/index.html
(click "FedEx Express U.S. Terms and Conditions" and then click "FIREARMS")
*or click HERE for the short version.

I have been shipping with UPS for over 25 years, ground & air, I do not know when, but at some point UPS changed policy (tariff = UPS rules, NOT laws) that you can only ship a handgun via air (2 day or overnight), and then changed it again that by UPS rules they only ship handguns OVERNIGHT + "ADULT SIGNATURE REQUIRED" .
I learned the hard way what that really meant, what it meant was they could ship the guns, but if one got lost or damaged as was my case, the insurance that was on the package was nullified because of the UPS TARIFF (UPS shipping rules/agreements (NOT LAW)).
So they have collected 25 years of insurance from me and only recently I found out that they would NOT pay up when it was needed!

*You may request insurance amount from me by what you think your gun, parts, & custom work will cost to REPLACE.

** If I ship OTHER then PRIORITY OVERNIGHT SHIPPING I will NOT be held responsible for insurance.
I will ship your gun in PARTS (not an assembled gun) and it will be up to you to ENSURE that any loss or damage claim will be named & labeled as PARTS ONLY = NO FRAME/RECEIVER claimed or they will NOT PAY ANY INSURANCE!
I will do my part, but you will ultimately be responsible and have to do your part, together maybe we can stop UPS from taking advantage.

*** Lastly... I AM willing to ship on YOUR UPS or FEDEX account # - PRIORITY OVERNIGHT SHIPPING ONLY
You MUST supply me TWO COPIES of a pre-filled shipping ship or label with your account # & information - FULLY INSURED ONLY.
(I need two copies, one copy for shipping & one copy for my shipping records (photocopy OK))
$15 Service fee to cover my pick-up & packing

Back up to "TJ's Shipping Directions"

Q:  Do you sell barrels, or what barrel do you recommend?

A:   Yes, I can sell you a factory Sig barrel, or an aftermarket barrel.
Yes, BarSto barrels are very good, not much better then factory, but a little.
I can install it for you and polish out the machine marks & flaws, but I do not sell them because the delivery time is VERY UNRELIABLE.
As for FireDragon stainless match barrels, contact me and I'll check stock, if available then no problem, if not available IMEADIATELY,
then "2 weeks delivery" usually means 2 - 6 MONTHS!

Q:  Do you accept credit cards or checks?

A:   NO, I accept CASH - MONEY ORDERS - CASHIERS CHECKS . . . ONLY!
ALL gun work must be PREPAID, that means you MUST send payment in the box WITH your gun.
NO CREDIT CARDS, NO CHECKS, NO PAYPAL, NO I.O.U., NO LAYAWAY!

Q:  Why can't I talk to you on the phone?

A:   Well, you CAN, just not for free.
I AM available to advise you, but there is a minimum $10 fee for it.
I charge $150 per hour whether I am working on your gun, or giving you advice, it uses the same time from my day.
I will not count exact minutes on the phone, but we all need to try to be fair about it.
$150hr = $2.50 per minute, send as much as you feel you may need, any $ left over & can be credited to your gun work.
Before you complain, ask does your lawyer charge you for phone time?

NEW FOR 2012 = I will accept Paypal payment for "PHONE CALL ADVICE TIME" only,
you can "Send Money" via paypal.com to TJsCustom@aol.com
I will NOT accept paypal for parts, labor, or anything else!


Or please DO email me your questions for FREE.
I am happy to answer all of your questions via email.
Please keep your questions concise and separated, so I can answer them all properly and address each issue or question.

Please read my NEW POLICIES web page for more info on all of this.

Q:  Can I drop off my gun to you?

A:   YES, but there is a $100 fee (per visit) JUST to get in the door.
And it is by APPOINTMENT ONLY.

Just like a Doctor visit or Lawyer's session.
$100 Per Visit Charge (drop off = 1 + pick up = 2 / 1+1=2 visits)

Please read my NEW POLICIES web page for more information.

Q:  Can you convert a P229 to DAO (double action only), if so how much would it cost w/ a trigger job?

A:   YES! NO PROBLEM! 229, 226, 228, 220, 245, 230, 232, 239 and most others!
The fee is $35 in addition to action work or a LEVEL 1 PACKAGE, or $95 alone.

Q:  What is the difference between the "Bobbed Hammer" and the "Semi Bobbed Hammer" ?

A:   The "Bobbed Hammer" is a FULL bob, you will NOT be able to manually cock the hammer back without racking the slide, it is the best for "legal liability defense".
The "Semi Bobbed Hammer" is more like rounding off the rear of the hammer, I remove the rear serrations that drag on clothing, but I deepen the front cocking serrations so you can cock it faster and more positive if needed.

Q:  If you were to do a Level 1 or action job on my Sig would the single action slack (take-up) be removed or minimized?

A:   NO, it will be SIGNIFICANTLY smoothed and lightened up, but I cannot remove any of the actual "travel" of the pull or you will render the DA mode nonfunctional.

Q:  How light can you make the trigger pull on my Sig DAK model?

A:   Each gun is different.
On the 229DAK that I have worked on, arrive here at about 9-10 lbs, and leave at about 7-8lbs
I know this is contrary to what you have read, but this is REAL LIFE measurements "direct pull back" on MY scale, not mock-up measurements for a magazine article.
Yes, I can give you 5 or 6lb pull, but you will soon be crying to me about missfires, and you will have to pay the shipping fees both directions to get me to remedy the problem (increase your trigger pull).

Q:  Can you install night sights in my "xxxxx" gun?

A:   Yes, whether there are factory night sights available, or not, there is a 99% chance that I CAN get Tritium night sights or inserts installed into your gun.

Q:  How much would it be to install a compensator on my SigSauer or Beretta?

A:   A Sig Sauer or Beretta match barrel & fitting is typically $295, or on Beretta you can thread your existing barrel to install a comp on it instead.
My full profile Beretta Tri-Mag comp is $895 + refinishing + S/H, that includes the comp & threading & fitting.
Or you can install my smaller two port Sig comp on a Beretta also, that is $695

Custom made compensators can run $1000-$3500 depending on how many ports you want, full profile or 1/2 profile, etc.
I can make ANY comp YOU design, it is only a matter of cost and if it is worth it for YOU.

Sig is all the same prices except you NEED to buy an extended barrel before a comp can be added; I can sell you a match barrel, or you can go buy one from BarSto.
Because of BarSto's very poor/unreliable delivery times, I don't sell them or get involved with that aspect of it.
Barrel fitting (with Throat & Polish) can run from $100-$195 depending on if you get the "drop-in" or "match" barrel, and if you want the nasty machine marks polished out of the outside surfaces.

.
Q: Why does my Sig P220 feel better then my P228 (or old model P226) after you worked on both?

A: The P228 or old model P226 (with welded sheetmetal slide) will never be as good as a P220.
It is not only a design difference, but also ALL the P228 & older P226 have a factory flaw, that is they do not strike the primer in the center, they hit at 1:00-2:00, so you need more mainspring tension to hit harder to compensate for the off center hit on the primer anvil. This increased mainspring tension directly results in a heavier DA pull.

Q: Will your "TJ Sig Sauer Grip Screws" fit my new model wood grips?
      or... I bought your TJ SigSauer grip screws but they are too short for my grips, WHY!?!?

A: My screws will not fit SOME Sig P226/P228/P229 models that were sold with grips not made my Sig Sauer / SigArms because my screws are the SAME size as Sig OEM factory grip screws.

I would always assume you have wood grips made by Nill or Altamont on your gun if my screws do not fit perfectly.
Those grips require a SPECIAL length of screw, they are longer then the standard P226/P228/P229 screws, yet shorter then the P239 screws.
My screws are the exact same size as the original Sig factory screws, so no, they are not longer and will not fit better then OEM factory screws.

You have three options other then the screws that came with them.....
#1 You can dremel your grip holes a little so they will accept the standard Sig screw size (like my screws are).
#2 I can sell you EXTRA LONG screws and you can cut them down to the length you need. (Same price as my standard size screws $15 matte, or $22 for satin polished or high polished) (+$4s/h)
#3 I can sell you two sets of my Sig 239 screws, but you will still need to file them down just a little so they do not protrude into the mag well.

Q: Can you tell me what weight recoil spring I have by the color of the marking from Sig?
      Are Wolff springs better then factory OEM Sig Sauer springs?
      What recoil spring weight is best for my 1911 or SigSauer pistol?

A: Wolff springs rarely break, unlike Sig springs, but the Sig springs have a different kind of load action, by being stranded they are 'supposed' to be better by design.
An original factory Colt 1911 recoil spring is 15-16 lbs stock, the new trend is heavier springs 17-20 lbs from many manufacturers.
The heavier spring gives you less felt recoil, and more protection against frame battering, BUT the heavier spring is harder on the action work, and will make the gun much more likely to jamb from short recoil stroke if you don't hold it FULLY tight or use reduced loads.
Also a extra heavy recoil spring is more likely to wear the hammer / sear relationship, and more likely to give you a hammer follow to 1/2 cock.
Personally I normally go with the lighter end of the scale on springs, so on a 1911 or Sig 220 maybe 15-16 would be my personal choice.
As for Sig Sauer colored springs, they have changed colors/tensions maybe 20+ times through the years, so you can't tell the weight your spring is by paint color, gun model, or by spring length, they just put in whatever they feel like on any particular run of guns.

Q: What exactly does a comp (compensator) do for a pistol ???

A: The short answer is it helps the gun not to rise as much when you shoot it,
thus shooting flatter to give you faster recovery shots, and less felt recoil.

The long answer...
Think of it like this.....
If you fired your gun in the dark, you would see a funnel of flame following the bullet out of the muzzle, that is basically gasses & pressure.
The compensator (unlike a muzzle brake) is cupped (ie: open on top / closed on the bottom),
so as the gasses exit the barrel... the compensator catches a good portion of them and exhaust them upwards,
in return they push the compensator (and thus the entire gun) downwards.
So you feel less recoil and a lot less muzzle rise.
Therefore you return faster to your target, and with less shock to your hands/arms.
What is the difference between a "flash suppressor" / "muzzle brake" and a "compensator"?
A compensator is explained above by its function, design, and intended use/benifits,
where as a "flash suppressor" is not really designed for recoil reduction, but more for flash suppression.
DOJ defined flash suppressor:
"flash suppressor means any device designed, intended, or that functions to reduce or redirect muzzle flash from the shooter's field of vision,"
http://search.doj.ca.gov/AGSearch/isysquery/8f85d944-b937-4eb1-83bc-5cacf6647524/11/lines/165-215/


Q: Is anything that you can do that will take up the trigger slack on my Sig or remove some of the trigger travel?

A: The answer is NO, if I was to remove any of the "slack" it would render the DA mode non-operational.


Q: What does polishing the breech face do for reliability?

A: Just think about it...
When the round slides up at an angle under the extractor as it is loading, it is the breech face that the edge of the round is rubbing up against, so the smoother it is, the less friction & resistance, so the round tends to slide "up and in" easier and more fluidly.
*But without adjusting the extractor tension correctly, it is a pointless modification.


Q: Why do you recommend to "Fit & Polish" for my extractor?

A: 99% of extractor breakage is from a cartridge butting against the face of the extractor hook (usually from someone dropping one in the chamber and dropping the slide (BIG NO! NO!)), occasionally it is from the magazine prematurely releasing the round before the slide pulls the round out and guiding it under the extractor.
Polishing the extractor face will generally make the extractor flow around the cartridge case rather then butt into it and gall on the brass,
think of it as if you pressed soft brass onto a ball bearing, rather then medium-rough concrete.
Which would give way to it and work around it, and which would grab it & lock onto it?   grab = breakage.
An extractor with too much tension will not allow the round to chamber correctly because it restricts the case flow up the breech face.
An extractor with too little tension will not hold the spent cartridge tight enough to pull it out of the barrel chamber after it is fired and the brass expands into the chamber.
The "Extractor Fit & Polish" modification will encompass polishing the extractor face, adjusting the tension, and very often undercutting the hook to enhance the extractor "biting" onto the cartridge case.

Q: Why do you recommend a "Satin Polish" on my barrel hood?

A: I usually recommend that I do a satin polish on the barrel because it will not only make it look nicer but it will smooth the slide function by rounding the sharp edges and changing the direction of the graining to follow the slide / barrel friction travel path.
You will usually FEEL the difference when you cycle the slide manually after the satin barrel polish (or high polish or jewell).



Q: I watched your "TJ's Sig Sauer Disassembly & Reassembly DVD",
Where can I get a good alignment punch to help me on disassembly & reassembly?


A: I recommend the Mayhew SP-5 from Brownell's web site.
The punch you want is Brownells number 080-645-007
www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=697/Product/GUNSMITH_S_ALIGNMENT_PINS
Also, the SnapOn mini needle nose pliers E770AC & E770ACG are discontinued, but you can find used ones or old stock sometimes,
the current E703BCG is a much longer needle nose plier and not really as good,
you would be better off finding another brand, what you want is 5" - 5.5" overall length, it works best.

Q: Does your Level I package increase the accuracy of my pistol or does just make it easier for me to shoot it accurately, or both?

A: My LEVEL 1 action package does NOT make the "GUN" more accurate, it does make it much smoother & reliable, but more importantly what it does is by making the trigger pull smoother & lighter, it makes "YOU" shoot more accuratly thus giving the illusion that the gun itself is all of a sudden shooting much tighter groups!

Q: Do you have suggested modifications for left handed Sig shooters?

A: I am not left handed myself, but going by what left handed customers have told me and ordered,
The "Heat & Bend Up Slide Release" allows LH shooters reach the slide release MUCH easier.
I can also move the magazine release to the right side of the gun very easily.
I am unable to move the decocker, slide catch, or take down lever to the right side of the gun though.

Q: Do you give a warranty on your custom work / action work?

A: NO ... yes you read it right.... NO.
That being said, it treat it simply.... if I screwed something up, OF COURSE I'll make it right!
However if after I work on your gun, you have any problem not directly related to something I screwed up, then I am not responsible.
THAT being said, I still usually am willing to fix it anyway, or try to remedy your problem anyway just to give good customer service, but I ask YOU to pay the S/H both directions.
Same goes if you decide you want your trigger pull lighter or heavier, YOU to pay the S/H both directions and I'll cover the labor.
Attitude is everything with me, so if you ask nice, I will almost always go the extra mile for my customers, but if I hear "you worked on my gun and now I'm getting missfires", well you are only going to be re-directed to this FAQ page to READ it again to see WHY you are getting those missfires.
If you want to use junk ammo, you need to tell me BEFORE I do the work, also if you are LEFT HANDED please tell me in advance because you will need a slightly heavier DA pull to have reliable on detonation. (I can not fully explain why, but it is the way the trigger/trigger bar pull the hammer back differs from a RH or LH angle of pull)
PLEASE read my "TJ's Custom Gunworks Standard Work Policy Disclosure & Liability Disclaimer" for more on all of my policies.


Q: Will your custom work / action work void my manufacturer's warranty?

A: Probably YES, not because my work is not a significant improvement over the factory work, but because they will use ANY custom work performed by ANY gunsmith as an EXCUSE to limit their liabity / warranty.
Occasionally you get some straight & honest person / company, but I have heard that typically they use the "custom work" as a out so they don't have to fix your gun for free.
PLEASE read my "TJ's Custom Gunworks Standard Work Policy Disclosure & Liability Disclaimer" for more on all of my policies.


Q: Will you return my old parts after you replace them with new parts?

A: NO, not unless you request it IN ADVANCE, and usually pay a small core charge.
Yes, just like almost all auto parts stores, they charge a core fee until you return the old parts.
I do sell off the old take off parts as scrap to the "garage gunsmiths" to tinker with.
I have no problem returning your old parts to you, just a small extra fee that's all.
PLEASE read my "TJ's Custom Gunworks Standard Work Policy Disclosure & Liability Disclaimer" for more on all of my policies.


Q: Do you offer Police / Law Enforcement or FFL gun dealer discounts?

A: No, I'm sorry I don't.
Around 80%-90% of my business are PD/LEO or FFL clients, so it would be unfair to raise the price for only the minority 10% +/- of regular customers,
especially when that 10% are typically my best customers ordering more substantial custom work then that usually requested by P.D. officers etc.

However... I am willing to barter for old handgun parts or broken guns!
I have in past years made many ongoing arrangements with Police officers to trade gun parts (stripped from confiscated handguns) in trade for my custom work & repairs.
(FYI, when handguns are scheduled for destruction it is usually only the frame that is required to be destroyed as that is the ONLY part of a handgun that is legally the "gun" and registered, so all remaining parts including barrel, slide, and all small parts, are considered scrap and/or non-essestial parts and have no legal binding for destruction).
I welcome any similar trades or bartering as I am always in need of parts, all makes/models are welcome, I dont care if it is junky Davis/Jennings crap, or good SigSauer/S&W etc parts, all are usable for me sooner or later.

Q: Do I need to clean my gun before shipping it to you?

Starting Jan 1, 2012 I am charging a minimum fee of $35 for any gun sent in that is filthy or gummy with grease.
If your gun is just dusty, or you ran a couple mags though it then it is no problem, no charge.
BUT if you have not cleaned you gun in 100's or 1000's of rounds, you can expect to pay a cleaning fee ($35 - $95)
Also if you gun is clean, but you have filled it with any grease, Froglube, or anything similar, it is MINIMUM of $35 cleaning fee (Froglube = $95 cleaning).
If you send me your gun without the cleaning fee and I find it filthy or greased up, I will contact you for the extra $, so don't be shocked.

Would you stop by and eat a pizza on the way to your dentist office for a checkup?????
Probably not, so think about it please. Or, just send the cleaning fee $ and that is all good too.
You are pre-warned so please be fair & considerate.

*Please note the $35 "MINIMUM GUN CLEANING FEE" does NOT include complete disassembly or barrel scrubbing/deleading.

Q: I still have questions, how can I contact you ???

A: Your first & easiest way to contact me is to E Mail me all your questions.
If you write BRIEF questions, and separate them in INDIVIDUAL lines/subjects, I will be able to address each question much better and more thoroughly.
The other alternative is to send me $10 in cash or money order and I will call you.
( Please try to include the best times to call you in the afternoon or evenings. )
I know there will be some people out there that will view this solely as arrogance, it is not.
I used to spend 50%-70% of my "open hours" talking and answering questions for free and getting paid nothing for this service.
No work was getting done and guns started to back log.
As of  "March 2000" I am no longer a free directory assistance and free data bank.
I am very glad to continue to provide the service to you, only I want to be compensatied for my time, just like any doctor or lawyer,
I don't think I am being that unreasonable.

I feel that if someone is willing to send me $10 then at least they are probably a serious customer,
and if they are not willing to part with $10 then they are probably only looking for free advice and to waste my time.

Please mail payment for parts etc to :

TJ's Custom Gunworks
PO Box 328
Culver City,  CA
90232,  USA

Please ship your gun(s) here :            NOTE: THE ADDRESS BELOW IS FOR UPS/FEDEX SHIPPING ONLY - NO DROP OFFS!!!

TJ's Custom
3347 Caroline Ave.
Culver City,  CA
90232, USA
 
 
 

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